Boilers fail differently than furnaces. The common calls: a circulator pump that's stopped moving water, a zone valve stuck closed, air trapped in the system, a pressure relief valve dripping, or a low-water cutoff that's shut the boiler down to protect it.
Your technician checks system pressure, the circulator, zone valves, the expansion tank, the burner and the controls. On older cast-iron boilers we also check the flue and draft, since many share a chimney with the water heater.
We stock circulators, zone valve heads, relief valves and expansion tanks for the systems common in Halden, so most repairs finish on the first visit.
Signs you need this
- Some radiators are hot and others are cold
- The pressure gauge reads below 12 psi or above 25 psi
- Water dripping from the pipe on the side of the boiler
- Banging or gurgling in the pipes
- The boiler runs but the house doesn't warm up
How it works
Book a window
Two-hour window, same day when you call by 2 p.m., 24/7 for no-heat.
Diagnose
$89 flat. Pressure, circulator, zones, expansion tank, burner and controls.
Repair and bleed
Written price first. We bleed air from the system and confirm every zone heats.
Common questions
What pressure should my boiler be at?
Most residential hot-water systems run at 12–15 psi cold and up to about 25 psi hot. If it's above 30, the relief valve will open. Call us.
Can I bleed my own radiators?
Yes, with a radiator key, while the system is hot. Keep a towel under the valve and close it when water comes out steadily. Check the pressure after.
Do you work on steam systems?
Yes, though they're rarer here. A few techs specialize in steam and handle those calls.